Riyadh

Riyadh is not on the Umrah route and most pilgrims never see it. It is the capital, it is where business happens, and it is the city changing fastest. If you are coming for work, or extending a trip into something broader, it earns two days rather than one.

How long to give it

Two days is the honest answer. One day covers Diriyah and an evening in the modern city. The second gets you out to the Edge of the World, which is a half-day trip on its own and cannot be rushed.

Three days if you want museums, the old souq and time to eat properly. Riyadh's restaurant scene has become one of the better reasons to be here.

The two things that matter most

Diriyah and At-Turaif is the mud-brick birthplace of the Saudi state, restored at enormous expense and floodlit after dark. Go in the evening and eat at Bujairi Terrace next door, looking across at the walls. Book a table on a Thursday or Friday.

The Edge of the World is where the Tuwaiq escarpment stops and the desert drops several hundred metres to an old seabed. It needs a proper 4x4 and someone who knows the track, there are no facilities, and the cliff is unfenced. Go for sunset.

When to come

November to March, without much argument. Riyadh is inland desert and the summer is severe in a way the coast is not — dry, but well past the point where sightseeing is pleasant. The upside of the dry heat is that evenings cool down properly, which Jeddah's never do.

Winter nights are genuinely cold. Take a jacket, particularly for the Edge of the World.

Getting around

Riyadh is enormous and low-rise, and distances between the places you want are long. The metro now runs and is useful for the main north-south corridors, but most visitors still find a car with a driver simpler, especially with the Edge of the World or an evening at Diriyah in the plan.

King Khalid International is about 35 km north of the centre. Fares for the run in are on the Riyadh airport transfer page.

If you are here for work

Base yourself on the Olaya and King Fahd Road corridor, where most of the business hotels and offices are. Traffic peaks late morning and again in the early evening. Meetings often run late into the night by European standards, and the working week is Sunday to Thursday.

If you need cars for a team over several days, our corporate accounts handle standing bookings rather than one-off rides.

Worth knowing

• Riyadh is open to visitors of any faith, like Jeddah.
• Distances mislead. What looks like a short hop on a map is often twenty-five minutes.
• Diriyah's entry arrangements have changed more than once as the district is built out. Check the official site before you go.
• Nothing outdoors is enjoyable between about 11:00 and 16:00 from May to September.

Where it fits

Riyadh pairs naturally with AlUla on a domestic flight, which is the standard "see Saudi properly" week. It is a long way from the Hijaz, so bolting it onto an Umrah trip means a flight rather than a drive. Our Riyadh city guide covers the sights in more depth.